It’s not a long drive from Sun Peaks over to Revelstoke: drive back down to Kamloops then east following Highway 1, past some very beautiful lakeside scenery and on to Revelstoke; except we had a small detour via Sicamous, the “Houseboat Capital of Canada”. Work was being done on a bridge on Highway 1 along with highway improvements. It was not a long detour but just a bit unexpected. It is funny driving round Canada’s roads and seeing signs for Mara or Craigellachie, though I don’t think Mount Begbie has anything to do with Trainspotting! On the drive down the road between Sicamous and Revelstoke, you pass “The Last Spike” where the final spike was driven into the Canadian Pacific Railroad finally joining up the railway connection between the East and West Coasts of Canada. We saw a lot about the Canadian Pacific Railroad over the next few weeks. At 12,500 miles long it was built between 1875 and 1885. Building it was a massive undertaking as it brought Canada together encouraging the different Provinces of Canada to join up politically and bringing into shape the Canada of today. Effectively bringing together the two sides of an extremely large continent. That journey is one for another trip!

We had heard a lot about Revelstoke, mostly from folk who had not actually been there but that’s skiing for you, so we were looking forward to it. We arrived to damp miserable conditions, a typical “soft” day in Scotland. It was disappointing after all we had heard about this “freeride mecca”. Everyone we spoke to told us not to worry as it would be hoofing it down up top, typical ski bums. Next morning we woke to the same grey skies, but it was not actually raining so things were picking up. We headed out of our hotel, the Sutton Place, located right at the gondola base, to the Rockford Bar and Grill for breakfast. There was already a big line waiting for the gondola to open and it was only eight o’clock. We decided there was no need to hurry breakfast as the lift line was not going to be any smaller any time yet. By the time we came out of breakfast, hurried to our room to sort out ski kit and then joined the queue it was trailing right through the village and up a summer walking trail above the car park.

It took us 40 minutes to reach the front of the line and a further 15 minutes till we exited at the top of the gondola. It was like being in the French Alps at New Year – but at least it was a friendly experience and we got chatting to some snowboarders from Ontario who’d come over just for the snow! From the top of the gondola you have 2 options, turn right then ski down to the Stoke Chair or left to the Ripper. Both had long lift lines. It transpired that Revelstoke had not had great snow this winter and this was the first fresh, deep snow for about 6 weeks so everyone in the local area was taking a sickie. After a long wait for Stoke Chair, we decided to try skiing down to the gondola mid-station and see what the wait was like there and as it turned out not long at all. It’s almost 3,000 feet, just under 900 metres, of a drop from the top to the gondola mid-station which is not too shabby. You cut along “The Last Spike” to pick up “Pitch Black” or “Cannonball” or if it is your first day in Revelstoke you can try some of the big blues off this side of the hill, “Snow Rodeo” being one of our favourites.

The funny thing about Revelstoke is that although the lifts are very busy the trails are empty. All the locals are either hiking for different lines, queueing for Lemmings Ridge or flying through the trees. You can have an empty slope to ski down and only find it starts to become busy near the lifts as skiers and boarders emerge from the trees. Every resort that we ski in North America gives you the option to ski with a local. Sign up with a local “Mountain Host” and be shown the best runs to suit your standard of skiing. This is a great way to find your way round some of these big resorts, not only do you find out the best runs but you also meet up with really nice folks who ski at your pace too. The “Mountain Hosts” are usually locals who know all about their town and local area and not only know the best runs but are also a fount of knowledge about the local area.

Day 2 was not so busy as the locals were back at work! We came off Stoke Chair and cruised down our first run. About halfway down my boot felt a bit loose and looking down I could see why. The forefoot strap on my right boot was flapping freely in the wind. The retaining bolt had come adrift and was probably lost somewhere above me. We immediately took the lift back up, skied the same line and there was the missing bits, minus the retaining bolt, phew. I then skied slowly, cautiously down, skiing alpine style, both feet together. How dull this was! At the base I crossed over to “Crucial Parts” the ski store there and asked nicely if they had any spares. Thankfully, they did and I was back in action. I now carry another set of spares in my ski bag alongside all the other spares. It’s tough being a telemarker.

We stayed in the Sutton Place Hotel which is the only on-mountain hotel. Downtown Revelstoke has several good hotels but this was the most convenient for us with only 5 days to ski there. We had a very nice room with all the conveniences, cooker, fridge, freezer etc. It even had a washing machine which allowed us to keep our clothes clean and fresh. we didn’t eat there as there is no restaurant but the Rockford Bar and Grill is next door and all part of the same complex. You do have to go outside to get there but it’s not too far even in the drizzle which greeted us on arrival! Parking is indoors and an easy walk with your bags into the main reception hall, there are ski lockers for each room and a ski concierge if you need one too. It has at least 2 hot tubs, the best of which is a bit of a walk to an adjacent block but we managed to find the other on the second floor of the hotel with views out to the mountains.

Revelstoke is a good-sized ski town, originally settled in 1885 during the construction of the Canadian Pacific Railway, it now has several quality ski and outdoor stores to wander round at the end of your ski day. They even have a small range of telemark kit in Revy Outdoors where I managed to find a nice, checked shirt to help me fit in with the locals.

Revy, as the locals say, has loads of good restaurants and bars to tempt you. There are most food options available, pub grub and burger joints, alongside some very good full-service restaurants. We ate in the Rockford Bar and Grill, for breakfast and dinner, at the resort, but then ventured downtown to The Chesterfield, a smart burger joint which offers pasta and a range of homey, well presented mains too. Our favourite, though, was the 112 Bar and Grill, a high-end fine dining option located in the Regent Hotel. This was pricey, but the cocktails in the piano lounge, the elegant atmosphere, and the extremely well-presented platters of delicious food meant it was well worth it.

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