15 miles

After yesterday’s wealth of Roman history with the stretch of wall from Gilsland and the interesting history at Birdoswald and Lanercost, today was something completely different. We bade farewell to Charlotte at Abbey Farmand leaving Lanercost Priory behind we quickly realised that Hadrian’s Wall had, for all intents and purposes, disappeared. There wasn’t a single stretch of wall to admire all day. Instead, this was a day of big skies, rolling farmland and quiet country lanes as we made our way towards Carlisle.

It’s easy to assume that a walk called Hadrian’s Wall Path means you’ll spend every day following the Roman frontier. The reality is rather different. The wall itself is long gone across much of the eastern and western sections. So today became less about Roman Britain and more about enjoying the Cumbrian countryside; walking just for walking’s sake.

The going was certainly gentler than some of the dramatic crags we’d tackled earlier in the week. Gone were the steep climbs and rocky escarpments, replaced by broad grassy tracks and farm paths winding through fields. The views stretched for miles, with the Pennines fading into the distance behind us as we edged ever closer to Carlisle and views of the distant hills of the Lake District.

Of course, no countryside walk would be complete without some cows. It wasn’t too long before we had our first encounter, but luckily enough there were plenty of other ‘Wallers’ in the field walking in the opposite direction and they helpfully scattered the few inquisitive creatures before we got there. There was a bull, but he was chilled out with his hareem of heifers and didn’t bother us at all (unlike some rather unlucky walkers we chatted to later who had not had such a pleasant encounter with him). One field down, many more to go. The sheep were much less of a threat, mostly trying to find shade and cool places to rest in the heat of the sun.

The surprise of the day came when we spotted a small group of cute alpacas in one of the fields. Rather than ignoring us, they suddenly came bouncing across the grass to say hello, ears flapping and hair flopping. I just love these animals. This was also the second place we had passed accommodation pods, so if you are looking for somewhere to stay and want to stay somewhere more rural, it seems there are plenty of options (although I’m not sure what the dining options are like). 

Later, the landscape changed again as we crossed large arable fields where towering maize was growing, giving a different feel again compared to the open grazing land we’d walked through earlier. We stopped for a picnic on the edge of the field, having failed to find a bench to rest on for many miles. (If you’re in the same situation there were benches just before and after Linstock, but we’d already had our break by then). 

After crossing the M6, the route gradually became a long approach into Carlisle. There was nothing particularly difficult about the walking, but after covering mile after mile, the city always seemed just a little further away than expected. You enter the city through Rickerby park and then meander along the river to The Sands Centre where you pick up your penultimate Hadrian’s Wall passport stamp (and an ice cream!) 

By this stage, my feet were beginning to object. A sore heel that had been grumbling for a while was threatening to become a proper blister, so one of our first priorities after arriving in the city was a visit to Boots for some emergency foot-care supplies. Long-distance walking isn’t always about spectacular scenery and ancient history; sometimes success depends on a packet of blister plasters and a bit of determination.

Our accommodation for the night was Howard Lodge, a simple guest house that provided everything we needed after another long day on the trail. It was pretty basic, but the bed was comfortable and the hostess was full of cheer.

Being in the city, there were plenty of dining options tonight and we chose Alexandros, a wonderfully busy Greek restaurant that was clearly a favourite with the locals and other walkers – we found several people we’d met on the trail eating there. Despite being packed, the atmosphere was warm and welcoming, the drinks refreshing, and the food hearty and delicious. We had various dips and pitta breads to start with, I then had fried halloumi and Nick had meatballs for a starter, and then we both had moussaka for our main course. Plenty of carbs there to keep us going for one more day.

Although today’s stage lacked the dramatic Roman remains that have defined so much of the journey, it had a character all of its own. It was peaceful, scenic and unhurried, allowing us to appreciate the changing landscapes that Hadrian’s Wall Path passes through. Not every memorable day needs towering forts or stretches of ancient stone. Sometimes it’s enough to walk beneath wide skies, meet a few inquisitive animals (although I much prefer alpacas to cows) and simply enjoy putting one foot in front of the other – even if one of those feet is beginning to complain.