Day 2 Ennerdale Bridge to Seatoller
Wednesday 22 May 2024, 11 miles
Rain was forecast for today, and it was disappointing to find that the forecast was right. We set off from Ennerdale Bridge in the dry and took the south side of Ennerdale Water as the more direct route and apparently better track. There is a fair bit of scrambling up and down rocky outcrops along the lake shore, particularly around Angler’s Crag and I’m not sure I’d want to come this way in really bad weather, but we managed to negotiate the challenges mostly in the dry. As we reached the end of Ennerdale Water, the rain started; light at first, but increasingly heavy as the day went on.
Out came the waterproofs, and we carried on. All was well. For a while. Until I then started to feel rather damp and realised that my new waterproof was not, well, waterproof. Darn. Not only that but my relatively new boots, that I’d worn just a few weeks previously for the Cape Wrath Trail, were also feeling distinctly damp too. I do tend to go through boots quickly, but that was rapid even by my standards.
We were following the northern bank of the River Liza, gradually gaining height. By now, the rain really was lashing down on us. We sought refuge in the Black Sail Hut; fortunately the warden was there and didn’t mind us dripping all over the floor while we had our flasks of tea. He had just been about to close up and head off for the day when we arrived, so our timing was perfect. We sat there a while, hoping that the rain would ease off, our garments dripping into puddles on the floor as we filled the hut with a steamy atmosphere. We knew we’d have to go outside and carry on at some point, but we were in no rush.
But outside we did have to go eventually. The rain was slightly less heavy as we started our climb up towards Loft Beck but the respite didn’t last long. This is a steep climb, but the path is really well made and like a stone staircase leading skywards. From the top of the climb, we got the map and compass out and set a bearing just to be on the safe side. The visibility was pretty poor and it would have been easy to wander off the path in places. There are cairns marking the way, but these are not too easy to see in very bad weather.
Once past the crags of Grey Knotts we continued on, now descending, until we reached the old tramway. Heading down towards Honister Pass we could see the evidence of the old quarry workings and slate mines. We handrailed the old railway line for a bit, then a wall, the descent getting steeper and steeper, and wetter and wetter. The rain was still pouring; coming down like stair rods. Dark, gloomy skies above; dark, slate-coloured rocks below; it was like descending into the gates of hell. Once at Honister Slate Mines we sought respite and shelter in the café which was full of other Coast-to-Coasters wringing out wet clothing and creating puddles on the floor with dripping kit. A steamy cup of coffee and some millionaire’s shortbread later, we headed back out into the maelstrom for our last few miles to Seatoller.
Descending into Seatoller, we could see the Glaramara Hotel below us. The route map showed the path taking a big dog-leg and then coming back on itself up the main driveway to the hotel. Ha, we thought, surely there must be a quicker way if we just skip over this wall and down through the trees to the back of the hotel. Tim, the more sensible one among us, decided to go the ‘proper’ way and was there waiting for us at the door to the hotel as we shamefacedly stumbled across walls, fences and boggy fields to meet him. No, it’s not quicker trying to take a shortcut here! Apparently Seatoller is reknowned for being the wettest place in the UK; it certainly didn’t disappoint us on that measure.
The Glaramara Hotel was lovely. Maybe it was because any port in a storm will do, but no, this hotel really is pretty nice. There was a funeral wake being held in the hotel when we arrived and we felt rather embarrassed to be sloshing across the floor as mourners were quietly grieving and retrieving their coats from the cloakroom which we had just filled with sodden waterproofs.
Our room was spacious, with a good-sized bathroom, and most importantly super effective radiators to dry out all our kit while we went down to the bar and dining room. How civilized, a G&T before dinner in the lounge, and then the dining room opens and the maitre d’ invites all the guests to come through for dinner. We had a really delicious meal this evening with a choice of starters and mains followed by dessert and then coffee served in the bar.
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