City Streets, Coastal Trams and Golf Retreats in Mallorca

We’ve been on a few city breaks and, as you’ll know if you’ve read some of our blogs, we love getting away, seeing the sights, and keeping active while we’re there whether that’s kayaking, skiing, walking or generally just getting out and about. 

Well, this time we thought we’d try something new and head to Mallorca for some sunshine. We don’t do lying on a beach summer holidays (too hot!), so we don’t normally head to ‘beach holiday’ destinations like Mallorca. We were delightfully surprised by what there was to see and do on the island. Yes, there are beaches. Yes, there’s lots of lying in the sunshine to do if that’s your gig. Yes, there’s good eating and drinking to be had. But there’s a whole lot more to it if you just get out of the resort and spend a bit of time exploring the island. 

Should we still visit these tourist hot-spots?

Before we go any further, it would be impossible to write about Mallorca in 2026 without acknowledging the ongoing debate about tourism on the island. During our visit we saw first-hand how popular destinations such as Palma and Sóller attract huge numbers of visitors, particularly during the summer months.

Recent protests have highlighted concerns from some local residents about housing affordability, overcrowding, pressure on public services and the impact of tourism on everyday life. As visitors, we think it’s important to listen to those concerns – it’s not so different to what we hear about the ‘success’ of the North Coast 500 in Scotland. Tourism brings jobs and investment to Mallorca, but it also works best when travellers make an effort to support local businesses, respect local communities and explore the island responsibly.

One of the things we enjoyed most about Mallorca was discovering that there is far more to the island than beaches and resorts. Taking time to explore its history, markets, mountains and local towns gave us a much richer experience and, hopefully, a lighter footprint too.

We were there for just five days, including travel, so a very short break. We managed to fit in quite a bit and still have time to relax and chill out (and get a suntan). 

So, read on to find out what we got up to and what you should put on your list if you’re thinking of visiting this jewel of the mediterranean.We were there for just five days, including travel, so a very short break. We managed to fit in quite a bit and still have time to relax and chill out (and get a suntan). 

So, read on to find out what we got up to and what you should put on your list if you’re thinking of visiting this jewel of the mediterranean.

Getting there

We flew out from Inverness with KLM via Schipol in Amsterdam. It meant a very early start with a 6am flight time, so we checked in to the Mariott Courtyard Inverness Airport the night before to ease any stress of getting to the airport in the morning. We only live 45 minutes away from the airport, but to be honest I don’t really like having to drive at 4am in the morning to get there so we had a comfortable night in the hotel instead. Our early departure from Inverness got us to Schipol for breakfast and we arrived in Palma around lunchtime. Palma has a big, busy airport, but it was easy to find the car hire centre and we were soon on our way out to Son Antem, about 20 minutes to the east of the airport, to the Marriott Hacienda hotel. This hotel is co-located with the Mariott Vacation Club and golf resort; it’s inland, and to be honest there’s not a lot there other than the resort and the golf courses. You definitely need a car if you’re staying there. 

So, this is what we got up to on our few days on the island.

1. Walking tour of Palma city

A walking tour of Palma city is an absolute must if you travel to Mallorca. Full of history, easy to find your way around, and lots to see. Put it at the top of your list. Depending on where you are staying you might find yourself driving into the city and if you are, one of the easiest places to park is the underground car park at the Cathedral. Be warned, though, it is busy. We were queuing for about 15 minutes to get a parking space because it is not very well designed and you just have to wait patiently while all the cars in front manoeuvre into their spaces. 

It’s very easy to do a self-guided tour of Palma. It’s a compact city, full of interesting architecture, art, markets and history. Pick up a map from one of the tourist information offices (there’s one just by the Cathedral), and take a wander through the courtyards and alleyways. 

Our first port of call was the Cathedral, also known as La Seu. Between April and November the Cathedral is open for visitors between 10am and 5:15pm, but in winter (December to March) it closes at 3.15pm. We didn’t do a tour of the inside, but you can buy tickets online in advance via the website if you want to do that. It is a beautiful building and we enjoyed just wandering around the outside, taking photographs and soaking up the atmosphere.

Palma and its city walls
View of Palma cathedral
Vibrant fruit and veg market

From the Cathedral we wandered some of the narrow streets around that quarter, pausing to grab a coffee in one of the pretty courtyards. 

A visit to Palma is not complete without a tour of one of the fresh fruit and vegetable markets. We actually visited two of them: the Olivar and the Santa Catalina. The Mercat de L’Olivar has stood in the centre of Palma since 1951; get there early in the day to sample the fresh fish and meat and if you’re feeling peckish there are plenty of options to stop for a snack. The fruit and vegetable stands are vibrant and appealing. Across the other side of town The Santa Catalina marketis housed in a similar purpose-built market building and also has an array of fruit, vegetables, seafood, wine, flowers, meat and fish stalls, plenty of them offering fresh tastings and restaurant service. Either market is well worth a visit particularly for a spot of lunch. 

Leafy green gardens outside Palma cathedral
narrow alleyway near Palma cathedral
Woman dressed in a pink shirt carrying a blue cross-shoulder bag, wearing sunglasses, standing in a shady avenue in Palma, Mallorca

In the afternoon, we took a stroll through the broad avenue of Las Ramblas with its flower stalls and shady trees, from there you can head for the shops around the Plaça d’Espanya area if that’s your thing, then head back to the city walls for impressive views over the harbour and back towards the Cathedral. 

Finally, we made our way back to where we’d parked taking in the 10th century Almudaina Palace on the way and a stroll along the Paseo Maritimo which is popular with walkers, joggers, and cyclists. 

2.         Tram ride to Sóller

We spent one day exploring Mallorca’s north-west coast. This is a beautiful part of the island, backed by the dramatic Tramuntana mountains and dotted with attractive towns and beaches. It is also one of the most visited areas of Mallorca, particularly during the summer season.

We bypassed Sóller to start with, parked at Port de Sóller and took the historic tram into Sóller itself. The vintage wooden carriages have been carrying passengers between the port and town since the early twentieth century and are an attraction in their own right. At €20 per person for a return ticket, they’re certainly not the cheapest form of transport, but the short journey is great fun and offers a glimpse into the island’s past. You just buy your ticket on board with cash or card, and the trams run every 20 minutes, so it is very easy.

The old tram station building in Port Soller
Soller tram timetable
Here comes the train
An orange train, approaching
Train drivers hanging out the front of an orange cab

When we arrived in Sóller, the town was incredibly busy. The central square was packed with visitors enjoying the cafés and restaurants, while the tram rattled back and forth carrying a constant stream of passengers. It wasn’t difficult to understand both why people are drawn to the town and why tourism has become such a talking point here.

Rather than lingering in the busiest areas, we wandered away from the main square into some of the quieter streets, where we found attractive architecture, local shops and less crowds. Those quieter corners ended up being our favourite part of the visit (other than the ice cream we had in a corner of the square!).

Soller beach with palm trees, deckchairs and clear blue sky with mountains in the background
A busy town square in Soller, Mallorca
Green wooden blinds in a rectangular window framed by light beige stone

Sóller is undoubtedly beautiful and well worth seeing, but if you visit, consider taking the time to look beyond the postcard views. Spend money in independent businesses, be respectful of residents and remember that this is a living community, not just a tourist attraction.

There’s a video of our tram journey on our YouTube channel if you want to take a look: https://youtube.com/shorts/zTkxRcF0Xa0?si=TeQlzKuN8bjE4tM_

3.             Chill out at the hotel

One of the benefits of choosing a golf resort destination like Son Antem is that you can just chill out at the resort if you don’t want to do anything more demanding. With such a short trip it was actually nice to have a day just relaxing at the pool, going to the spa and exploring the resort area. 

The Hacienda Son Antem is a beautiful hotel with a lively bar and pretty courtyard to sit in for an evening. There’s a restaurant in the hotel or you can choose one of the other restaurants within easy walking distance such as the golf clubhouse at the nearby residences or La Finca which serves food al fresco just a few minutes stroll away. There is not a lot of choice at the restaurant in the Hacienda, so it was good to have alternative venues to go to. Overall I’d say the food offerings were OK but nothing to get too excited about. Our best meal of the week was definitely at La Finca which was our last night.

Hotel Son Antem
A small table and two chairs, set between high hedges with green grass beyond
Swimming pool surrounded by small cabins, in the sunshine
Hotel bar with spirit bottles, and glasses
marble floor, archways and terracotta pots
A woman in a plaid skirt, burgundy top, and red cap swinging a golf club.

4.             What else is there to do?

Elsewhere on the island there is plenty to keep you entertained, from the holiday hot-spots and beaches, to mountains, caves, or watersports.  So if you’re heading to Mallorca, why not go climb a mountain, explore a cave, take a catamaran ride or go sea kayaking. There’s something for every level of activity. 

We were staying on a golf resort at Son Antem (The Marriott Son Antem) so spent a bit of time frustrating ourselves whacking little white balls around. If you’re a golf fanatic you’ll find plenty of golf courses scattered around the island. It seems to be a really popular destination for golf lovers. 

On the other hand, if outdoor sports are more your thing we found several outfitters offering kayak trips, cycling tours, guided mountain walks and tours of the island. Just ask at the tourist office. If you know that this is something that you want to do, then it is advisable to book ahead, particularly in high season, to ensure that you can get a space. 

We didn’t actually do any activities on this trip (wow – that’s a first!! – we were limited for time) so I can’t recommend any particular provider on this occasion.  

Sign for Tramontana tours offering mountain biking, boat charters and excursions

Final Thoughts

What surprised us most about Mallorca was how much there is to discover beyond the traditional holiday experience. Yes, there are beaches, resorts and sunshine, but there are also mountains, markets, historic towns, walking trails and a rich local culture.

If you’re planning a visit, we’d encourage you to venture beyond the resort gates. Explore Palma’s historic streets, visit local markets, try independent cafés and restaurants, and spend time discovering the landscapes that make the island special. Travelling this way not only creates a more rewarding experience for visitors, but also helps spread the benefits of tourism more widely across the island.

Mallorca is a wonderful place to visit. Like many popular destinations, it faces challenges from its own success. As travellers, we all have a role to play in ensuring that the places we enjoy today remain enjoyable places to live tomorrow.

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